CLS Ethical Shopping

Can you give us a little bit of background behind CLS Ethical Shopping 

CLS Ethical Shopping trades directly with a small group of Cambodian community development organisations and social enterprise businesses. The products that we have in our online store and market business are fair and ethically handmade by the organisations.

CLS Ethical Shopping also promotes and donates regular funds raised ethically handmade by the organisations.  CLS Ethical Shopping also promotes and donates regular funds raised from our product sales to the development organisation, Chumkriel Language School in Cambodia.

How did it come to be such an integral part of your world

I began CLS Ethical Shopping in 2010 after returning from my year long volunteer period with the community based development organisation Chumkriel Language School (CLS) in Cambodia (read more about them "here").

I wanted to remain involved and continue my support to CLS.  The perfect way to do this was to also support and trade with other Cambodian organisations by selling their gorgeous products here in Australia.

In 2012, when I had my baby son, CLS Ethical Shopping expanded to become a sustainable WAHM  (Work at Home Mum) Business whilst continuing to donate regularly to Chumkriel.

Getting the word out and educating people is a pretty hard job to do, but with social media and other marketing methods perhaps it's become just that little bit easier. What role do markets like Orange Grove play in not only maintaing the efficacy of Fair Trade, but helps get the word out there

Having a stall presence at markets such as Marrickville, provides me with the opportunity to speak one-on-one with people and share my story and passion for sustainable development and fair trade principles.

It enables me to talk about the benefits that can be achieved by supporting small grass-root organisations that work hand-in-hand with vulnerable communities in Cambodia to improve their future prospects.  I find that sharing my personal experience is valued and appreciated far more than any advertising campaign.

Predominantly babies/childrens toys, clothing, accessories with some stuff in there for Mum too.  Why did you select this particular range

The organisations that I have chosen to trade were hand-selected whilst I lived in Cambodia.  I've chosen the range of products, not only for their bright colourful appearance and high quality craftmanship, but I also spent a lot of time learning about which organisation programmes were well run and had trustworthy backgrounds.

Some of the products are also my own designs that I get ethically handmade by the social enterprise Dorsu (which you can read more about "here").  The main example of this is the Eco Baby Bag, designed with practicality in mind - I needed a nappy bag that was compact and convenient.  Dorsu had the skills and ethical practices that I trusted and knew were worthy of supporting.

How would you sum up the world of CLS Ethical Shopping in 5 words

Community Learning Sustainability - my passion

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And believe us when we say, the products at this stall are so beautifully made, full of gorgeous bright colours with the bonus of being durable and practical, along with such an inspiring person like Anna .... well how could you go past and simply not buy one of these gorgeous little things!

You can keep up with all things CLS Ethical Shopping by following their facebook page which you can get to easily by simply clicking "here")

Needle vs Thread

Give us a little bit of background behind Needle vs Thread

Needle vs Thread started in 2006 under another business name (Plus 1 Design) and looked vastly different to what it does 8 years later.  I've tried every craft there is and none stuck with me until I was given a sewing machine (with the intent to alter clothes) and fell into bag making.  I started with very simple fabric pouch style bags and made some for local (Sydney) bands that I knew and worked with.

We sold some bags alongside t-shirts on their merch-stands and others were used to package limited editing albums.

The name Needle vs Thread is actually the name of an album that I sewed the packaging for!  I made 20 of them, as well as the band name - Seaworthy (being proud supporters of all things Aussie, you can check out the band on their facebook page "here").  When I needed a new/better business name, this one seemed to fit perfectly and I think earned it!

In the 8 years I've been making bags, my skills have improved and with it, the kind of bags I'm able to make.  In the last 4 years my current range has really taken shape and turned into the Needle vs Thread you know today.

I have a background in graphic design (I was working as a freelance web/print designer when I started sewing) and this helps with my product development and branding.  I do all the graphic design and photography for the business and I think you can see this has carried through.  People notice that NVT has a particular aesthetic, which is getting stronger by the day!

What is it about Japanese fabric that attracts you

Japanese design is just so beautiful.  There's an amazing attention to detail in it and always a simplicity (even in the complicated patterns!) and the balance just works so well.  I like both traditional and modern Japanese prints.  The modern Japanese work is clever and quirky and the colourways are always spot on - bold when it suits, subtle when necessary.

My favourite fabrics are Etsuko Furuya's "Echino" range.  Her bold graphics and even bolder colour combinations are just stunning.

The fabric has a hand screen-printed look that sets it apart from many others and makes it fit in especially well with the handmade products.  There's a good variety across the range, so it means I can use a number of fabrics on different bags at any one time without all of them looking too similar. 

Now making bags is no easy feat by anyone's standards.  Yet your unique designs are made to last AND look gorgeous at the same time (win-win!).  From concept to finished product, what are the steps you take to get that perfect pattern/design/template and what types of machinery do you use to ensure durability

Concepts for bags are constantly taking over my brain!  I have more ideas for bags than I'll probably ever get to make.  Whilst I have formal training, I'm lucky that pattern for bags comes pretty easily for me.  I start with a rough sketch, then work through design details in my mind and on paper.  There are always a lot of initial options for closures, straps etc so I work through these until all the design questions are resolved, then get to the making the pattern.  This is usually paper that gets cuts and folded to shape.  Once the paper pieces fit, I start making!  Most of my bags thus far are simple enough that it works first go, but occasionally there are tweaks and remakes required.

I learned early on that having the right tools for the job was key to making good products and making them well.  The vintage industrial sewing machine that I found on a footpath next to the house I lived in Marrickville many years ago, changed what I was able to make and how I worked.  It enables me to sew heavy materials like vinyl and also to work quickly. 

The vinyl that I use is upholstery grade and chosen for its durability.  I don't believe in making something if you're not going to do it well and make it last!  I also use an ElnaPress (ironing press) to fuse professional quality interfacings that give my bags structure and crispness that you can't get using cheaper products that ultimately don't fuse well or stay fused.  The better interfacings need a lot of heat and pressure and you can't achieve this with a regular iron (or you can, but it will take a very very long time and the finish is not as good).

I only use metal hardware on my bags because it's stronger and looks so much nicer than plastic.  I use seatbelt webbing for the straps and this has to be melted to prevent fraying so I get to play with a butane torch every day for that job!  As well as this, I have a rivet press, an electrical rotary cutter that can handle 8 layers of vinyl and 50 layers of cotton at once, hammers, chisels, pliers plus all the usual sewing equipment! 

What or who inspires you

I'm inspired by my own personality traits as much as anything.  I'm pragmatic by nature and a perfectionist. I strive for everything I make to be practical but also look great and solve as many design/use problems as it can.  I like to complicate things, but only as far as they are useful.  I've tried to simplify my work in the past, but it goes against my nature and ultimately what I see as the beauty of NVT products.

In terms of outside influences, I study handbags a lot.  I'm not looking at what brand, colour or fabric they are, but what shapes they are, how the straps are fixed to the bag, how the bag closes, what function it has and so on.  I'm also influenced by the fabrics that I work with in terms of motivation to make things!

As well as this, many years ago I was looking for a particular handbag hardware that was very difficult to find.  I found a lady in Melbourne who sold hardware and patterns for bags and I asked if she could get what I needed.  She could!  This was the start of what I now consider a friendship with the wonderful Nicole Mallalieu (you can find her "here")

Nikki's patterns are amaaaazing!  I own a few of them and the detailed instructions within them taught me all about the finer details of bag making.  The way she finishes every detail so perfectly is a constant inspiration to me.  Nikki has always been incredibly generous with both her advice and encouragement, and it has been a real pleasure getting to know someone as talented at making bags (and garments and the patterns for them!) as her. 

Market life: it keeps you real, it keeps you grounded. What role do markets like Marrickville play in the world of Needle vs Thread

Markets are the life-blood of Needle vs Thread!  Most of my sales are through markets. I don't currently sell my products through retail stores, and finding time to keep my online shop well stocked is difficult, so markets are what keeps things going.

I love markets because I get to interact with customers.  I learn why they do (or don't) buy things; I see what they love about my products; they tell me what else they'd like to see.  The feedback from people I meet at markets is invaluable.

Marrickville was my home for 5 years before I moved to the Blue Mountains and I loved living there and love being able to visit there regularly now. 

The market itself is amazing and I'm very glad to be able to be a small part of it. Starting at Marrickville in June 2014 gave me the push I needed to make Needle vs Thread vegan as I saw the demand for it there, more than anywhere else I trade.

Most products were vegan already, I just had a few small leather components on some products and the occasional leather bag in the past.  This caused unnecessary confusion for customers, so the change has become a very positive one that customers (especially at Marrickville) have really welcomed!

It's another example, in a long list, of a decision I've made based on feedback that has helped Needle vs Thread grow into the business that it is - one that keeps me very busy and makes me very proud to call mine!

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And we thank the FABULOUS Kirrily for sharing just a little bit of the complexity of making ridiculously fantastic bags and if you keep up to speed on her Facebook page (which you can find "here")you will see new additions as they are "born" so to speak. She can be found 2nd, 4th and 5th Sundays of each month!

MUCHOS GRACIAS!

quirky_way

Julia

borneo_vee

jackie_m

rindfleisch

rollerfit

Mai Creation

The Nutritionista

My Kitchen Stories

acully

The Backyard Picklery

Glory Box Designs

nat_bowie

thechairoom

Glory Box Designs

Who is Glory Box Designs

I started designing in the 5 years I lived in China­ I had such great access to tailors and fabric that my wardrobe grew to epic proportions. As I couldn't fit into the local clothes, I had to buy my wardrobe seasonally on my trips back home, and I felt that there was a big gap of easy fit clothes in bright, bold colours. 

I started developing a range of swimwear and kaftans in larger sizes but my technical knowledge was letting me down, so I came back to Sydney to study fashion design at East Sydney TAFE, and then moved in to Textile Design where I was really able to let my imagination fly. Combining my love of print with my desire for an endless summer, and my background in Drama and Film­ I develop unique prints that I then translate in to either my homewares or fashion and accessories ranges. I feel very strongly about keeping production Australian, so I do all of my screen printing, sewing and pattern making myself, and have my digital printing done locally. 

At the core of Glory Box Designs remains one constant, making pieces that leave no woman behind. I work at an approachable price point, breathable styles and easy care fabrics. Life is too short not to have beautiful, comfortable clothes.

What is it about colour that inspires you

I think I was born that way. I grew up on a beautiful farm in the bush by the beach, in a house filled with colour and beautiful objects. The influences of my mother and her sister have proved to be very strong, as I always keep them in mind when designing. 

I find colour so comforting, nothing upsets me more than beige. I use colour as an expression of feeling and am always attempting to evoke emotion through my use of it. It's definitely quite innate­ when painting walls at home I have these grand plans that freak everyone out, but once they're on the wall they love them. 

I have never had any intention to just blend into the background, and I love that when I am at my most colourful it gets smiles from strangers. They don't call
me "The Sequin Terrorist" for nothing.

Your  jewellery is tactile, durable and not only absorbs but reflects whatever the wearer has on.  So the question must be asked: why resin in particular

Resin is a medium that I stumbled on by accident, and a happy one at that. It is so versatile in that I can make it into an infinite amount of shapes and colours, it experiments nicely yet also is able to provide consistent results for moulding. 

I can use it to mimic the intricate details of crystal, or make it smooth as stone, transparent as glass or as opaque as the night in a range of high octane colours.

As a kid I loved staring into blown glass paper weights, tiny little worlds frozen in time­ I get to do that with resin. It also has the benefit of being strong and light, a must for my pieces as I believe they should be worn with reckless abandon. I want you to be able to just throw it on and know that you can get about your business of being fabulous and relaxed. 

My jewellery can be used to complement an outfit,  or be the star of one.

Traditionally pink is a soothing colour and somehow you have managed to strike the balance with explosive mixtures yet peaceful glam.  Is this a deliberate method or was it more of an accidental happening

I love that phrase 'peaceful glam', as it really is the essence of my aesthetic, I am always trying to show that bright prints and good taste are not mutually exclusive.

As a lot of my prints are subversive and cheeky, using colours that directly contrast with the idea of the print and just another way that I like to play with design. For example, I did a print range called "Obnoxious Weeds" and I took my inspiration for the motifs from the cane toad, the indian myna and the prickly pear, and then used these inviting, complementary colours with them, to make the concept of toad skin more appealing. It's always worth asking me the story behind the print, I can be pretty silly at times.

How would you sum up the world of Glory Box Designs in 5 words

Cheeky design irreverence, with heart

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No arguments here!  We love her, we love love LOVE her designs, energy and everything that come with it as will you!  Swing by the Marrickville Market Hall and see where the lovely Lara's creative juices have led her and we reckon you too will become forever a fan of this most talented creator!

5 Questions with Judi & Mulapa Aboriginal Art

How did you originally become involved with Mulapa Aboriginal Art

"Mulapa" means 'really' or 'true' in Pitjantjatjara which is an Aboriginal language.  This is why when I started this business in 2010 I named my business "Mulapa Aboriginal Art" to highlight my number one principal: that I sell "really true" ethically sourced Aboriginal art.

I knew I didn't want to open a gallery to sell the art but I wanted to sell from home. Once that idea was in my mind, I needed somewhere to advertise my business.  I decided to sell on a stall at Orange Grove Markets (because they are my local markets and I had been going there weekly since they started) and now recently in the new addition to Marrickville Market in the Hall which I am incredibly pleased about.

Also my home is close to both the markets, so it made sense to attract people from the local area or who were familiar with the area around the markets.

Part of your ethos is "Mulapa Aboriginal art is a signatory to the Indigenous Art Code and Australian Indigenous Art Trade and Fair Trade".  For those who may not fully understand "Indigenous Art Code" and "Indigenous Art Trade" could you explain in layman's terms exactly what this means

As a dealer in Aboriginal Art being a member of both organisations lets people know that I believe in and support the practise within the industry.

Membership of both organisations is voluntary. (nb: if you would like to learn more about Indigenous Art Code click "here" and for Indigenous Art Trade click "here").

The Indigenous Art Code ensures that artists are treated and paid fairly by dealers who work directly with them.  Australian Indigenous Art Trade Fair also makes sure that art works sold (usually through galleries) have been ethically sourced and that dealers behave at all times in an honourable manner when dealing with artists, communities and clients.

Not all galleries are members of both bodies, so if you do got to a gallery to buy, please check to see that they (the gallery or auction house) are members or if not, ask them why!

It would be difficult to say, hand on heart, that there are some pieces you fall hopelessly in love with and really do not want to sell them at market.  What is the process behind selecting exactly which pieces you do take to market to be sold

You are right!  Sometimes when I return from a buying trip a few pieces never make it to the markets...it's usually because my partner or I have fallen in love with the piece and we don't want to sell it.

I select paintings that appeal to me and that I would be happy to hang in my own home.  When I am packing the stock to take to market, I try to select from several communities and I certainly try to take different paintings each month.

I take a variety of sizes and prices because my goal is to entice prospective clients to my home to view and select from the 300+ pieces I have there.

How often do you return to the local areas to select new pieces

Over the last 4 years I have been to Alice Springs and several remote communities in the Central & Western Desert at least once every year and sometimes twice a year.

I recently returned to Yuendemu (350kms North West of Alice) for several days as a volunteer.

Judy Watson Napangardi (in centre wearing red) painting one of her amazing masterpieces

This was an amazing experience: watching artists paint, cleaning paint and brushes, priming canvases, making teas for the artists, toasties for their lunch and generally helping out when needed.  I chose to do this because I wanted to get an idea of what exactly was involved in getting this amazing art out into the world.

I went back to Alice in September last year for a week participating in "Desertmob" which is an annual event where all the art centres converge into Alice for meetings, exhibition and a market place where they sell the art!  I had never been before but it was an incredible experience and one I felt honoured to be part of!

We always ensure we ask permission before photographing items at market out of respect to both culture and artists.  For you personally, what is the most satisfying aspect of selling these incredible pieces at market and what has been one of the more profound reactions by a customer

My goal is to sell ethically sourced Aboriginal Art at fair and reasonable prices.  As a home-based business the overheads are minimal, so my prices are very affordable.  I am a firm believer that you should not buy a painting unless it makes your heart sing, so I am always encouraging people to take the painting home for a few days to check if it's right before making a purchase.

Mulapa has a not-for-profit philosophy of "giving back" to the artists and their communities as an act of reconciliation.  This year, the local high school has already received $375 to provide some extras for the Gifted & Talented Aboriginal students.  I will also be working with a local school to raise additional funds.

In fact, Mulapa's goal for the next year is to raise $5,000 for the Indigenous Literacy Foundation from sales of art works. 

As a retired Early Childhood professional, this organisation is close to my heart. I do this because I want to do something personally towards reconciliation outside of membership of a group or an organisation. 

Selling ethically sourced art allows me to follow my two passions: Aboriginal Art and Reconciliation.

The most profound reaction to a painting at the market came from a woman who stood in front of a painting with tears in her eyes.  She stood like that for several minutes before even asking anything about the painting.  I told her a little about the artist and showed her the story of the painting as documented on the Certificate of Authenticity.

When I told her the price she was so relieved that she could afford it and bought it on the spot.

The following day I received an email from her thanking me and telling me the painting still brought tears to her eyes every time she looked at it.

That makes me feel good!

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Judi recently featured in Ciao Arts and we thank them for allowing us to reproduce this article for our blog

So once a month you can find Judi in the Hall and we can only urge you to get in and have a look: once seen, once experienced, you will will find yourselves drawn to a piece and if (as she says) it "talks", it's best to buy a stunning original piece for you will never regret it

The Chai Room....it's all the groove you know

For those who may be unaware or unsure, can you explain exactly what "chai" is

Chai as a direct translation actually means "tea" in many languages.  However, in India "chai" is made with a variety of spices depending on what region you are from.

Over time as "chai" with spices has been introduced into many other countries the name Chai seems to have stuck and become associated with "spicy" or "masala" tea. Masala is the term used for a mix of spices.

What role has chai played in your life personally and what drove you to want to share this with others

Chai has been part of my life since I can remember.  It has deep cultural roots as I grew up in a traditional Indian household.  Chai was the drink that we would always welcome our guests with when they came over.  My mum would usher them into our front room saved for "best" and immediately get to work in the kitchen brewing up a magic creamy spicy chai concoction while my father kept them entertained.

I would watch in awe as she put it all together with expertise and of course we would have a mountain of Indian sweets and savouries: all presented beautifully on her best trays and her best chinaware.  Even strangers would become at ease as they sipped on my mum's chai and listen to her soft nostalgic stories.

Since my childhood this is a tradition I have always upheld no matter where I have been living in the world.  When I would make chai, it was everything to me....my comforter when I missed home, a welcome ice-breaker amongst friends and a way to reconnect with my history.

The ritual of making chai itself gives one time to wind-down and re-energise which is what I have always loved.

I have also found in times of loneliness, making chai brings back the warm memories of our fully happy home and since then I have been able to recreate that here with my own family and this is what motivated me to share it with others.

There never seems to be the "right time" or "enough time" for anything these days, but you can find a balance.  Through learning from my mum's generous soul, she taught my sister and I to do our best to give and not expect anything back. 

One thing that money cannot buy is time and it's a wonderful thing to be able to give someone a little bit of yours (time) to listen: I feel that I can that when I make someone a cup of chai....hence the name "The Chai Room", as whenever our mum had a pot of chair brewing on the stove we always knew the house would be full of good company.

What we particularly love is that inviting aroma (which seems to be a beautiful extension of yourself with your genuine enthusiasm and delight with each customer interaction) that greets folk as they discover what's in the Marrickville Market Hall.  But what we absolutely adore is your take home sachets and blends.  Is there a standard 'base' level to each type blend before adding other spices or is it more of an accidental discovery each time you have that creative urge to push that chai boundary a little bit further

The recipes for our chai is a family recipe that tell the story of the journey of our ancestors from India via the trade route in the early 19th Century, to then settle in East Africa (Tanzania) and then my parents migration to England in the early 1960's.

So the spices I use are a blend of Indian and Zanzibar (where my mum was born) and of course coming to England made the process even more formal with an ethnic twist!

Zanzibar has also been known as Spice or Clove Island. So that is why I prefer to use cloves instead of peppercorns or star anise.  The ginger is the "Indian" component.  I also use vanilla and cardamom and cinnamon as these spices are what gives the chai a balanced taste.

Throughout the whole process I try to keep the spices as authentic as possible, which is why I prefer to make my own ginger for the Ginger Masalas Blend by drying it and grinding it myself.

How important are markets in the world of The Chai Room

Throughout the world I believe that markets are the beginning of anything great, creative and free.  I have been brought up around markets all my life and have always used them as a source of inspiration.  It is a wonderful platform to be able to express your ideas and passion and with so much support not only from the market organisers themselves, but the community of the market from stallholders to punters. 

I especially love being part of Marrickville Markets due to the diversity it offers to everyone that is a part of it.  I meet people from many walks of life and  the interaction is genuine.  I love hearing people's stories and creating a connection and Marrickville Market certainly is the central hub for this.

For those who have yet to try, what 5 words would you use to encourage them to at least try some chai (or the chai cupcake even!)

Spicy yet smooth and palatable
Mouthwateringly delicious
Ambrosial
Scrumptious
Delightful!

(sorry!  I cheated)

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The love, the warmth and the tradition is truly felt in these words, so why not be part of Fatema's world albeit for a few hours every Sunday.  As you meander through the markets up to the hall, let the waft of chai sweep you in to the Hall, purchase a cup, taste a cupcake, even buy some to take home so you can continue that comfort feeling throughout the week with family, friends or that special "me time" moment.

A massive thank you to Fatema for bringing some of her world in to ours and yours every Sunday and we look forward to seeing many many MANY happy Chai faces wandering around our markets!